Fifty-third Post From Türkiye: A Blue, Blue Bayram Without You

Kayseri, Sivas, and Samsun

At Beijing I parted company with Merry and Trum. They headed off to Iowa, and I flew back to Ankara. While they were enjoying themselves with family, I was eating a lot of take-out, and sitting around an empty house. So, when I had a week off in mid-September for Kurban Bayrami ('Sacrifice Holiday,' the most holy holiday in Islam, which marks the end of the Hajj and commemorates when Abraham almost sacrificed Ismai'l), I couldn't bear twiddling my thumbs without even the distraction of work, and headed off on a road-trip to east-central Anatolia. My first stop was Tuz Golu ('Salt Lake') an hour and a half or so southeast of Ankara. 

  

I had to stop at Tuz Golu to buy some nuts from the farmers who set up stalls alongside the road. I bought half a kilo of pistachios and "milky almonds," which, along with Diet Mountain Dew (DMD), were my road snacks. Have you ever shelled pistachios while driving? It's not for the amateur.

Kayseri

My first overnight stop was the ancient city of Kayseri (ruled by Hittites, Persians, Seleucids, Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks, and Ottomans...and conquered by Arabs and Mongols). By the by, the Seljuks were an 11th-12th-century Turkic empire that stretched from Central Asia through Iran and Iraq to Turkey. The modern Turks have a tendency to look back at ye old Seljuk times with fondness...they never get tired of talking about how the Seljuk Sultan Alp Arslan defeated the Byzantine Emperor at the battle of Manzikert in 1071. In fact, I just noticed a new apartment complex being built in Ankara named, you guessed it, "1071."   

The 13th century citadel built by the Seljuks.

Being steppe nomads, the medieval Turks' understanding of architecture was based on the buildings of neighbors, and their own tents. When they started to work in stone, as opposed to wood and felt, they carried over those same forms, which is the origin of the conical, tent-like tombs the Seljuks left behind. 

The Revolving Tomb ('Doner Kumbet') is the most famous and elaborate in Kayseri.

We've been in Turkey 2 1/2 years now, but we have always spent Kurban Bayram outside the country. Hence, though I should have known better, I was surprised how much the country shutdown during the holiday. The main action going on was folks shopping for a sacrificial animal (live or dead) to share with family, neighbors, and the poor. Food in Kayseri is pretty spicy by Turkish standards. The manti (dumplings) are famous, and tasty!

A blurry sheep-shopping picture, b/c I was trying to be discrete and take it from a distance.

Sivas

After Kayseri I headed a couple hours northeast to Sivas.

What does Central Anatolia look like? Kinda like parts of Idaho/the inter-mountain west.

Like Kayseri, Sivas has been around a long time, has traded hands many times over the centuries, and retains architectural monuments from Seljuk times.

The Main Gate of the Buruciye Medresesi (1271)

Amazing Geometric Carving

Interior of Sifaiye Medresesi (1218)

Cifte Minare Medresesi (1271)

Sivas was also important in modern Turkish history. In September 1919 the Sivas Congress was held by Turkish nationalists fighting against the foreign occupation following WWI, and Mustafa Kemal came to the fore of the War of Independence there.

The Ottoman schoolhouse where the Sivas Congress was held.

Subasi Hani 

Like Kayseri, Sivas has conical Seljuk tombs.

This brick minaret was built in 1213 and is attached to one of Anatolia's oldest mosques.

Following a night in Sivas, I drove northwest toward the Black Sea via the town of Tokat.

Stone bridge outside Tokat.

Samsun

Samsun is Turkey's biggest port on the Black Sea and has breezy/Mediterranean sort of vibe. When I rolled into town the promenade along the seaside was hopping with fisherman, carriages, shoppers, ice cream salesmen, and all manner of strollers.

In May 1919, Mustafa Kemal arrived at Samsun aboard the mail steamer "Badirma," and began the War of Independence.

Statues reenacting Ataturk's landing at Samsun.

The Bandirma

Ataturk and Comrades

Long before the War of Independence, Samsun played an important role in ancient times, and was settled by Greeks in the 8th century BCE. But, the ancient history that Samsun really gets excited about, is its association with the legendary Amazons of Pontus. Was there really a kingdom of bloodthirsty women warriors here back in the foggy mists of time? Who knows. Herodotus says there were, and who am I to argue with him?   

Xena Warrior Princess?

Amazon Mannequins Killing them some Men!

I guess Amazons liked lions? See the guy in the mouth?

I love road trips, but they're only half as fun without my two best travel buddies. Buddy Holly kept me company as I rolled down the dusty roads eating nuts, though.