Fifty-sixth Post From Türkiye: Izmir

Izmir

Izmir is Turkey's third-largest city, had a large Greek and foreign population back in Ottoman times, and is known nowadays as a liberal hotbed. I wanted to check it out before the sweltering heat of Summer, so we headed down over Veteran's Day weekend.

 Izmir, about as close as you can get to Greece without being in it

We didn't eat here, but I hope they have peanut butter and banana doner.

 Agora of Ancient Smyrna

Like most of this part of Turkey, Izmir (Smyrna) traded hands constantly in days of yore (Greeks, Lydians, Persians, Romans...). Smyrna was mentioned as one of the seven churches in the Book of Revelation, and Emperor Marcus Aurelius, he of the Meditations, re-built the agora here.

Four Lions

Heyyyyyyy! (Jack channels his inner Fonz)

Piles of ruins waiting to be reassembled.

The Ottomans thought the agora was a good place for burying folks.

This trip was more about going for leisurely strolls than visiting tons of ruins and museums. So, we wandered around, bought counterfeit t-shirts, drank Turkish fruit soda, and took pictures of kitties.

Pear Soda

Hot-rod Kitties

I don't know why, but I thought I should look at carpets in the bazaar. Some times I just feel like doing it. Anyway, the joker that owned this place was relentless and obnoxious. Merry bought some embroidered pillowcases, but I was glad to escape. Izmir, like Istanbul, is much more touristy than Ankara, and sometimes I forget how to deal with aggressive salespeople.

Meh, his rugs were OK

Don't buy 'em! This guy is a pain!

There's nothing Trum loves more than an hour spent in a carpet shop.

                                                                         

 Kordon
The Kordon is the big promenade along the sea side. It has a very European feel to it, and many of the buildings along it belonged to Greeks, Jews, Italians, etc. back in the day.

Yali Camii (1755)

Konak Square (Brides amongst the pigeons)

Save the Clock Tower!

Trum amongst the pigeons.

Down by the Seaside

Gustave Eiffel, who built the Konak Pier, had something to do with re-building the Santa Maria Catholic Church in Izmir.

Santa Maria Catholic Church with iron girders on the ceiling 

The end of the Turkish War of Independence saw the victorious forces of the Turkish Parliament drive the Greek invaders out of Anatolia through Izmir. Unfortunately, the city was burnt down during this struggle. But, hey, it looks pretty good now.

War of Independence Monument

I spring for a shoeshine once in a while.

So I needed a haircut while we were in Izmir, and I thought any old barber would do. Well, I got shanghaied into getting carotene put in my hair, and some sort of mask placed on my face. Shocker, when I went to pay the gorilla running the cash register, I paid for the most expensive haircut of my life.

Ripped-off in Izmir

                                                                          

 Sardis

Finally we escaped Izmir, and set out for home. On the way, we stopped at the ruins of Sardis, capital of the ancient kingdom of Lydia, and another of the seven churches from Revelation. Almost no one was there. It was great!

  Row of  Byzantine Shops

Truman using the facilities...old style

Apparently a Christian owned this shop.

                                                                      

Synagogue

Amazing mosaics...exposed to the elements.

                                                                       

Gymnasium

This gym sucks! Where's the hoop?

Look how gorgeous this valley is, no wonder they chose it for building a temple.

                                                                       

 Temple of Artemis

Massive Columns

Each giant column had a different motif carved into the base. So cool!

Trum displays his ruin leaping skills.

Action Shot!

Good enough for a Christmas card.

Remnants of a 1910s excavation. (All photos of machinery are taken for my dad to enjoy. So I hope he likes it.)

Sardis was worth the trip. Izmir? Meh. I've been there, so luckily there's no need to go again.