Fortieth Post From Türkiye: Kyiv

As I mentioned last post, when Trum turned 12 we wanted to take him to the temple. Our temple is in Kyiv (that's the Ukrainian version. 'Kiev' is Russian), so we spent a day at the temple, and then a few days sightseeing. Kyiv is beautiful, the food was great, the sights and history were fascinating, but Trum's b-day is in February. Have you ever been to Ukraine in February? Do we look cold in these pictures?

храм (Temple)

The Kyiv temple is a beautiful building, and actually won an architectural reward. However, it is a 20-30-minute cab ride outside the city center. Jack had to explain to the cab driver, in Russian, where it was we wanted to go. He couldn't remember the word for 'temple,' so after going round and round with the dude, he finally said, "the building that looks like a castle." Immediately the guy knew what he was talking about, and took us there. Unfortunately, when we got there they had just finished a baptism session. Our only option was to wait in the nearby stake center (it was bitterly, bitterly, windy and cold outside), until we could do an endowment session. Truman had to sit in the waiting room and read magazines until it was time to do baptisms. Jack got to confirm Merry and Trum, as well as several Ukrainian members. He also got to baptize Trum and several local members on behalf of their dead ancestors. The rest of the trip was fun, but that day was really special. We all had a wonderful experience, and we got to hang out with some temple missionaries from Idaho to boot (where else would they be from?)! 

Maidan Nezalezhnosti ('Indepence Square')

This square has been the focal point of many important political rallies in recent Ukrainian history. These have included the protests of the 2004 Orange Revolution, and the 2013-2014 Euromaidan protests that led to the overthrow of the pro-Russian President Viktor Yanukovych.

Kyi, Shchek,and Khoryv, and their sister Lyib, are the legendary founders of Kyiv.

One of many memorials around town dedicated to the Ukrainian soldiers who have died fighting Russian-backed separatists in eastern Ukraine. From the conversations on the street, to posters on the walls, a visit to Kyiv leaves you in no doubt that Ukraine is a country at war. 

Soviet-era War Memorial

Memorial to the victims of the "Holodmor," the man-made famine in the Ukrainian SSR in 1932-1933. It killed 2.5-7.5 million and was likely part of Stalin's plan to eliminate the Ukrainian independence movement. Ukrainians are often miffed, and rightfully so, that the same people that lament the Holocaust and the massacre of Ottoman Armenians don't pay much attention to this tragedy.

Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra

This is probably the most important orthodox monastery in the eastern Slavic world. Kyiv, not Moscow, was actually the most important city in the early days of east Slavic history. It was the Kyivan Rus' state that adopted Christianity, and this monastery was founded in 1051.'Pecherska' refers to the many caves carved into the rocks, where the mummies of ancient monks are still on display. We, of course, had to go see those mummies. Pictures weren't allowed so you don't get the same pleasure!

Trinity Gate Church

One of the covered passageways that lead between the lower and upper parts of the monastery. It was chuck full of babushki selling icons and such.

Dormition Cathedral

Museum of the Great Patriotic War (WWII)

After the monastery, we headed to the WWII memorial. Unfortunately, the weather that had been drizzling rain in the morning turned to fog and icy wind, followed by big fluffy snowflakes. We really needed rubber boots!

A  Memorial to Soviet Soldiers Killed in Afghanistan

This plaque stood in front of some Russian-made military equipment recently captured in eastern Ukraine.

Russian Multiple Rocket Launch System of the BM Series

Soviet-era Tanks

"Rodina Mat" the 'Nation's Mother'

The Ukrainian national colors were everywhere.

Need some toilet paper? Putin=Not-so Popular in Ukraine

                                                                Pyrohovo Museum of Folk Architecture

Who doesn't love a good-old, open-air museum, with old-timey buildings collected from various parts of the country? The buildings were all really cool but this place was enormous. In the summer there is a horse and cart that shuttles visitors around. But as we were there in February we had the fun of navigating the vast park on foot. There were a few moments when I may have been annoyed with my husband.

Traditional Ukrainian Easter egg...except giant.

As we were walking by this little house an old lady came by and decided we needed a tour guide. I think she actually did work there, but a Sunday in February is probably one of her days off. But she took us through a few buildings anyway. It was funny because even though we told her we were from the US, everyone always thinks Jack is German, so she was speaking a mixture of Ukrainian, English and German to him. He did a good job, deciphering her descriptions for us.
Inside, the house was set up to look like it would have when people lived there. She told us it was a "poor person's house". Some of my German ancestors lived in Ukraine long ago and Jack kept saying, "This is how your people lived! Do you feel the connection?". Umm, not really but thanks for asking. 

Trum wishing he could've gone to school in the old days, like his ancestors.

Beehives? Smoke house? No idea.

St. Sophia's Cathedral

This is Kyiv's oldest standing church, and it has an amazing collection of mosaics and frescoes, some dating from the 11th century. I tried to sneak a picture of some, but got busted cold by two museum babushki who knew exactly what I was trying to do.

                                                                             Andriyivsky Uzviv

This is Kyiv's cobblestoned walking street, chuck full of shops and tourist junk.We ran into a couple LDS missionaries there, one of whom had just purchased a big, goofy-looking, winter fur hat. What else are you going to spend your money on when you're 18?

Trum and Some Cossack Bards

Yes, Jack ate sushi in Kyiv...and he says it was delicious! He may have gone a little crazy ordering that giant platter just for himself. But apparently had no regrets.

Russian-Ukrainian friendship monument? Not anymore, let's paint a Ukrainian flag on it.

Another Monument to the Recently-killed in eastern Ukraine

"Ramen Burger." Ever had one? You better do it, b/c it's good stuff! Gross! Jack ate that and wrote that!

"Trum! Don't look now, but there's a bear behind you!"

I feel like some of this post was a little grim. Ukraine is definitely having a tough time right now. But we loved our trip and had so much fun. Kyiv is a beautiful and interesting city! I am so glad we had a weekend to spend there!

Thirty-Ninth Post From Türkiye: Trummels

I just wanted to do a little post about the boy. He turned 12 in February, and in our church, when a boy turns 12, he receives the Aaronic priesthood and becomes a Deacon. Now he gets to pass the sacrament on Sundays and can go to the Temple to do baptisms for the dead.

We are so proud of this kid. He is funny, talented, smart, easy going, and fun to have around. I know we are so lucky to get to travel so much, but sometimes it can get a bit tiring--especially for a kid. But, he never complains and is up for each adventure we throw at him.

I could probably do without all of the Minecraft and other video game-centered conversations, but, all in all, he is a good guy. And, we are blessed to have him in our our little family.

B-day Brownie

B-day dinner with Some Friends at Carl's Jr.

Jack enjoying the reason we go to Carl's Jr. ... free refills!

Trum and the Old Men who Ordained him to the Aaronic Priesthood

The weekend following the kid's b-day, we took him to the Temple in Kyiv, Ukraine to do baptisms for the dead (more on that later).

The Kid Tries out his New Mummy Bag Prior to the Scouts' Winter Camp Out

Trum participated in his school's Lego League Robotics Club. He helped build the robot, and did some of the programming. Their team (the "Lego Chinchillas") won 1st place in the Mediterranean District and achieved the top score in all of DoDEA Europe. They also took 3rd place in the European Championship. 

It was fun to watch Trum's team do their thing, but it only lasted a couple minutes (it was timed and they competed with other schools in a google chat onlone).

The kid is growing up but I still find pictures like this on my camera, where he builds a fort with toys, pillows and blankets and has to record it for history.

He really doesn't like wearing these seersucker pants, and had to be threatened to make him hold still long enough for this picture to be taken.

Some people say he is a lot like his dad, which he is, but he is also a very unique soul. He is growing up too fast!

Thirty-Eighth Post From Türkiye: Çanakkale, Troy & Bergama

We had a long weekend earlier this year and decided to tour a few sights in the western part of Turkey. We started our trip in Çanakkale.

Çanakkale (literally "pot fortress") is a city and seaport, and is the nearest major town to the site of ancient Troy (Truva). We had been through here before as it is a ferry boat port, and we caught a ferry over to the European side of Turkey to see Gallipoli.

The "wooden horse" from the 2004 movie Troy.

Trum and I took a bunch of pictures of this cat. We thought it was so cute that he was patiently watching the fishermen selling their catch, waiting for a hand-out. I am pretty sure he got something, as cats are beloved in this country.

People fishing off some rocks. 

Clock Tower

Dardanelles Straits Naval Command Museum, We didn't go in, but wandered the park to see various weaponry and relics from the battle.

Sailor guarding the gate.

These giant anchors held the WWI Bosphorus anti-submarine net in place.

Çimenlik Kalesi was built by order of Mehmet the Conqueror in 1452

Çanakkale is a university town as well, and in this older neighborhood we found lots of cool old buildings and book shops. While Jack searched out books I headed in to this little courtyard. It had a little restaurant and a fabulous little pottery shop. You could see them through the windows making stuff in the back. We all got something to take home that made us happy.

When you're near the sea in Turkey you will often see guys with little trays selling mussels. Now I don't eat food from the sea, but I might be cautious with these if I was so inclined. I am pretty sure there's no health code being adhered to in this business.

The next morning we headed out to tour the archaeological site of Troy. It was the setting of the Trojan War described in the Greek Epic Cycle--especially in the Iliad, one of the two epic poems attributed to Homer. 

First Stop: Photo Ops with the Trojan Horse.

Often times in Turkey you will have random animals wandering sites. This was our favorite feline friend so far. He was a big ole tom cat and he had a super loud purr.

In Troy, nine cities have been discovered built one on top of the other, with the oldest dating back to 3500 B.C. Here Jack and Truman touch some of the wall from the first city, while the cat begs to be petted.

You might wonder why a city was repeatedly built on this plain. In the far distance you can see the sea. It used to reach all the way to this hill, but has since silted up. Cool, right?

I love to see the intricate detail on the artifacts left from the Romans.

Our friend Cat, still hanging out.

In the 1870’s, gentleman archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, came in and investigated the site by digging this giant trench through the middle to uncover all the layers of cities. He kind of made a mess, and it is still a little confusing to know what era you are looking at.

Roman Street.

Next we drove down the coast to Behramkale, It and its nearby sister city Assos were an ancient settlement founded in the 8th century BC. Aristotle lived here for a few years, and St, Paul visited  during his third missionary journey, meeting up with St. Luke before sailing to the nearby Greek island of Lesvos. 

Houses in the village built right into the rocks.

Ottoman Cistern from a later era.

We were the only tourists there that day, but chickens and kitties kept us company.

                                                         The Temple of Athena

That darn cat climbed all over Trum.

View of ancient and more recent settlements.

Beautiful Turkish coast.

Bergama is the modern town that surrounds the ancient city of Pergamon, one of the seven churches of Asia discussed in the Book of Revelation.

Our hotel was in the older section of town on a hill. We had to drive down some crazy narrow streets, dodging pedestrians, cars and tractors. Pretty typical in a Turkish town. 

Our hotel was an old Ottoman house. With awesome wooden floors and ceilings.

View from our window with my reflection.

Some of the old buildings in the neighborhood are yet to be restored. A bit on the dangerous side.

The acropolis is one of the most impressive in the Mediterranean. It was the home of the great Altar to Zeus (now in a museum in Berlin), which was probably why Revelation referred to the city being the place "where Satan's seat is" (Revelation 2:12-13). There were a few snowflakes falling that morning, so we rushed up the mountain to see it. By the time we got up there, a crazily chilly wind was whipping around the mountain top.

Trum With Anti-Freezing Wind Hood On.

Remains of the Library

Temple of Trajan

Terraces overlooking the valley.

10,000-seat Theater

I can not convey how truly steep the drop off the side of this hill was. It was crazy and scary. That theater was so steep. I can't imagine living here, let alone building all of these buildings during Roman times. It is really impressive.

Temple of Dionysus

By this time it was getting really cold on that hill so we headed down. But mere cold doesn't stop JACK"S ARMY! So we were off to a new site.

Back in town we went to the Red Basilica, originally a temple to the Egyptian gods Serapis, Isis, and Harpocrates (built 2nd century AD). Later on, Christians built a basilica inside the massive building.

Serapis? Isis? One of them gods...Some of the statues were rebuilt to give visitors a sense of what it used to be like.

Next to the basilica, we had to stop for some obligatory kilim shopping. This part of Turkey is home to the Yörüks, or Turkmens of Anatolia, some of whom are still nomadic. Their carpets and kilims are famous for using bright colors (especially greens), and hexagon and diamond patterns. We actually bought two of these kilims (can you guess which ones?). The shop owner attended UW-Madison, so he and Jack had a good time talking over their school days in Wisconsin. 

Though it was really starting to snow by this point, we still had to see the Asclepion--an important medical center/shrine to the god of healing (Asclepius). It was here that the famous Roman physician Galen was born and practiced. His work was the basis of Western medicine into the 16th century.

Snow flying in vertically at this point!

Roman Bazaar Street

Theater (Sick People Need Entertainment Too!) Filled with water from the storm and melting snow.

Faking that I am enjoying this.

Jack and a Guardian Dog

As the weather was similar here in Roman times they had covered tunnel walk ways. Here are the remains of two, one was still covered.

Underground Passageway from the Sacred Well. The Roman system to drain water was still working to keep the tunnel dry.

Temple of Telesphorus (son of Asclepius). Patients used to sleep here in hopes the god would send their diagnosis via dream.

By the time we finished the Asclepion the snow was falling pretty thickly and I literally had wind burn on my cheeks. We als needed to get back to Ankara (7 1/2-8-hour drive), so we high-tailed it out of town. First, we had to stop at a gas station for some Turkish junk food (including "Pop Keks") and I had to take a picture of a a guy selling chickens, because, why not?

You could spend every weekend for years exploring all the ancient sites of Turkey. There is hardly a pile of rocks in this country, that didn't play host to some important figure or event that shaped the history of the Western world. It's a fun way to spend a weekend.