I started to write this post but the history of this area is a bit too complicated for me to want to keep it straight in my brain. So I told Jack he needed to write up this post as he loves to fill his brain with all kinds of stuff like this. So here is a post about our trip to Turkey's Far East.
Kars, Ardahan, and Chillin' at the Homestead
Kars province is WAY out East; about as far East you can go in Turkey...if you keep going you run into the Armenian and Georgian borders. In the 10th century this region was part of the Bagratid Kingdom of Armenia, whose capital was eventually set up at Ani. This area was fought over by the Seljuk Turks, the Byzantines, the Georgians, the Persians and the Ottomans. Beginning in the 1800s, it traded hands between the Sultans and the Russian tsars, and Kars and nearby regions like Ardahan became part of the Russian Empire after Moscow's war with Turkey in 1878. Following WWI, when the Russian Empire collapsed, a short-lived Armenian state was set up and claimed the territory, but it lost this region to the Turkish Republic. When the Bolshevik regime finally entered the south Caucasus, it signed a treaty with Turkey, granting it this region, in return for Soviet control of Adjara in Georgia (the Russians also took Batumi, now in Georgia, from the Ottomans back in 19th century). The upshot of this complicated history is that this region contains an interesting mixture of medieval Armenian and Georgia ruins, and Ottoman and imperial Russian architecture.
Kars, Ardahan, and Chillin' at the Homestead
Kars province is WAY out East; about as far East you can go in Turkey...if you keep going you run into the Armenian and Georgian borders. In the 10th century this region was part of the Bagratid Kingdom of Armenia, whose capital was eventually set up at Ani. This area was fought over by the Seljuk Turks, the Byzantines, the Georgians, the Persians and the Ottomans. Beginning in the 1800s, it traded hands between the Sultans and the Russian tsars, and Kars and nearby regions like Ardahan became part of the Russian Empire after Moscow's war with Turkey in 1878. Following WWI, when the Russian Empire collapsed, a short-lived Armenian state was set up and claimed the territory, but it lost this region to the Turkish Republic. When the Bolshevik regime finally entered the south Caucasus, it signed a treaty with Turkey, granting it this region, in return for Soviet control of Adjara in Georgia (the Russians also took Batumi, now in Georgia, from the Ottomans back in 19th century). The upshot of this complicated history is that this region contains an interesting mixture of medieval Armenian and Georgia ruins, and Ottoman and imperial Russian architecture.
After Kars there be Dragons
Despite being mostly crumbled away, the ruins of Ani are still a site to behold, and one of my favorite places in Turkey.
Trum in a Crumbled Archway
Church of St. Gregory (Tigran Honentz)
There are several churches at Ani, and this one has the most impressive decoration. Finished in 1215, it has extensive frescoes featuring the lives of St. Gregory and Christ.
The Carved and Painted Exterior
Not only is the church beautiful, it has dramatic location on the edge of a cliff.
The Silk Road passed through here in olden days...and apparently still does?
Finished in the early 11th century, this building is massive, though it's too bad the dome collapsed in 1319.
It was a rainy fall day, and we had to take refugee in the cathedral.
This might be a good picture, but for the goofy fence. (My hair was flattened by the Rain-Merry)
The whole time we were there, I kept thinking how annoyed the Armenians must be that their ancient capital is just across the river in a foreign country.
Church of St. Gregory (Abughamrentz)
Yes indeed, folks in this part of the world like them some St. Gregory. This little church dates from the 10th century.
Can you read Medieval Armenian?
A typical shot of the rolling hills and steppe in this part of Turkey. (Notice the cool cave dwellings across the valley.-M)
Merry's Retirement Home
(The farm houses in the area are built of stone and have turf roofs. I love me some farm photos!-M)
Kars
Back in Kars, we decided to check out the local sites, including one of my favorite things seen on occasion in Turkey: an outdoor gallery featuring busts of all the great rulers of Turkic history (Alp Arslan, Babur, Kanuni Suleyman, Ataturk).
Just Me and Some of My Favorite Turkic Conquerors
Fethiye Camii (a converted 19th-century Russian Orthodox Church)
(Cute little bridal couple getting some photos in front of the Camii. I had to get a picture of them as well.-M)
One of many Russian colonial buildings around town
They have great food in Kars; lots of beef because of all the cattle raising going on. Also, for the first time, I had a 'dragon kebab,' which combined cheese, nuts, meat, spice, and vegetables inside a giant simit-like roll.
Azhdar Kebabi (Dragon Kebab)
(We were driving out of town on market day and we saw the cattle market going on. It was awesome! A little different from heading down to the auction like my Dad and Brother do to get a calf. But there were deals going down so it all comes down to getting a good deal on some cows. After I took this photo that cow in the front took a good long look at me over the wall. Probably wondering why I was taking a picture. I got a few similar looks from the farmers as well.-M)
Georgian Valleys
After a day at Ani and Kars we drove into neighboring Ardahan Province. The topography here changes between flat steppe to green, forested mountains in a hurry. In Ardahan and Artvin Provinces there are remnants of the medieval Georgian kingdom, including many ruined churches.
At the ruined Tbeti Church, luck would have it that we arrived just as a bus-load of Georgian tourists was off-loading it's passengers. The ladies covered their heads, lit candles, and prayed in the ruins. Just as we were about to leave, one Georgian dude walked up to Merry and started speaking Russian (that sort of thing happens to her a lot). I had to walk over and do a little Russian chit-chat with the guy. We talked a bit and he asked where we were from and what we were doing in Turkey. He must've thought that all Americans speak Russian, because he did not seem surprised in the least at our conversation.
After the church we drove up into the Sahara National Park. The fall colors were beautiful, but we got rained on.
Turkey is famous for Kangal Dogs; massive puppies used to protect livestock from wolves and such. When you see one on the street there's no mistaking them: they are YUGE!
On the way back to Kars, we stopped in the town of Ardahan. The citadel there was built by the Ottomans and captured by the Russians in 1878. We also took a detour around Lake Childir right next to the Georgian border.
Chillin' Like Villains
Look, I know you think all we do is travel, but most of the time we just hang out at our crib. For example, I finally bought a strategy board game I saw in a store when Merry was pregnant with Trum (it was too expensive for me then), and Trum and I played it for a couple days.
This was Trum's last kid Halloween. Next year he'll want to be causing havoc/throwing eggs.
We really did have an excellent time on this trip. It was great to see a different part of Turkey and the scenery was spectacular. So glad Jack plans this stuff for us!
